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Your Aloha Preview - September - "Battleships, Neighborhoods, Culture"
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Walking in Waikiki
With Cloudia
Charters
Battleships, Neighborhoods,
Culture
Aloha You! Thanks for stopping by today. Where did
Summer Go? Suddenly the floats are being prepared for
the Aloha
Week Floral Parade, and the Honolulu Symphony is
tuning up for a new season that will include "Ben" from the TV
show LOST
(Emmy winner Michael Emerson) narrating Poulenc’s classic musical
tale, The Story of Babar. .
.
The season just past was EPIC for South Shore surfers,
and forecasters are calling for perfect big waves (and soon!) for Oahu's
legendary North Shore. Just now, Waikiki is a glistening jewel set in azure
waters, perfect for revving your engines - or just relaxing in style.
China's Shaolin
Monks are here, showing off their amazing moves
at the Blaisdell Arena, and Aerosmith will perform here this Fall too. So many
choices! Why just the other day a friend asked me if I was going to
the Cazimero
Brothers' Christmas Show at the Hawaii Theater
again this year. Of course! But there's so much to enjoy around here before
December. Heck, we even have opera! One thing you WON'T be able to do for a
while is to visit the Battleship
Missouri; The "Mighty Mo" will be freed from her
moorings on October 14th for the first time since arriving in Hawaii 11 years
ago. Beginning before sun-up on that day, all 887 feet, and 54,899 tons of the
grey lady will be nudged by three or four tugboats the two miles from Pearl
Harbor's Pier Foxtrot 5 to the famous shipyard's Dry-dock 4. Dignitaries are
invited along for the 12 to 14 hour ride. But hundreds more of us average folks
are expected to be watching from the sidelines. Some lucky people residing up on
the hillsides will be able to see the drama unfolding from their homes.
Engineers are custom building 310 wooden "keel blocks" (8,000 pounds EACH) on
which the giant will rest. Once inside the dry-dock it should take 3 hours for
the water to be drained out while divers ensure the correct placement of bulk on
block. (The dignitaries will be stuck with each other's company until the ship
is high and dry ;) One of Hawaii's top 10 visitor attractions,
the Mighty
Mo drew 48,111 guests and pilgrims in July. That's 12 percent of all visitors to
this island, including numerous WWII veterans from EVERY side of the war. And
yes, those are the big 16 inch guns that
Cher cavorted on for her
"If I could Turn Back
Time" video! Sadly, the Association that manages
the ship is forbidden from firing them (or the ships engines) inside Pearl
Harbor. Watching the grey ghost glide past Waikiki from the deck of my own boat
on Fathers' Day of 1998 was a surreal experience!
Once tours resume on January
29th you can also hold your function or soiree
aboard the ship's fan tail. What a place for a birthday party! (I'm just saying.
. . .) You will again be able to walk the "Surrender Deck" where the Japanese
Empire and the United States signed the instrument that ended WWII. While you
are there, just look over one ship's length to
the Arizona
Memorial, and you will be looking at the spot
where war began, from the very spot where it ended. Only in Hawaii!
The Hawaiians of old divided the land into pie-shaped
sections called "Ahupuaa." These ran from the peak of the mountain, broadening
out as they reached the coast. Thus the local village people would have access
to the produce of the forests, the plain, and sea.
The Liliha /
Nuuanu corridor is one of my favorite such
neighborhoods in our Honolulu, embracing Honolulu Harbor, Chinatown, working
class commercial and residential Liliha Street itself, and the foothills of
Nuuanu. The histories of the Hawaiians, the pre-statehood Chinese, Japanese, and
Americans, all live richly in this area that contains the Royal Mausoleum,
(sacred burial place of Hawaii's Monarchs) legendary Kunawai healing spring
& pond, Kuakini (formerly "The Japanese") Hospital, which was the first such
hospital supported by Japan's emperor, as well as Hawaii's oldest lychee tree.
My favorite, 24 hour Liliha
Bakery is a beacon to the whole island, and
her coco
puffs are the stuff of legend. Further along
Kuakini Street, a well used cinder-block, neighborhood, Chinese Temple is right
across the street from a Japanese Buddhist Temple & School, all just a few
doors down from the Pizza Hut. Did I mention the four consulates? The Area is
named for the Chiefess Liliha, Governor of Oahu
under
Kamehameha. (It was her father, Hoopili, who
created the Royal Mausoleum). When his forces landed on Oahu, here at Waikiki,
Kamehameha fought the local warriors all the way up into this valley. The
famous Battle of the Nuuanu
Pali saw the local defenders spill over the
cliff (or Pali) rather than surrender. To this day, the Pali Highway carries a
supernatural aura that is felt by drivers, particularly at night. Do NOT carry
pork over the highway either, but that's a whole other (ghost) story ;-]. This
year's "I Love Liliha Town
Festival" opened with a traditional Lion Dance
at Kawananakoa Park. Who are the Kawananakoas? Abigail Kawananakoa is the
descendant of Hawaiian royalty, and would have a clear claim to the (overthrown)
crown of the Kingdom of Hawaii. She has recently been acquiring dispersed royal
possessions and gifting them to the Iolani
Palace where we can all enjoy them. There was a
controversy a few years back, when a national magazine photographed the lady
sitting on the throne, and a fine man named
James Bartels, who had dedicated his life to the
heroic restoration of the palace, left his job in the resulting ruckus. Ms.
Kawananakoa has since used her considerable personal wealth in aid of the
Hawaiian patrimony and people - especially in recent years. Most recently she
purchased one of Queen
Liliuokalani's golden bracelets, a very early
example of the Hawaiian heirloom jewelry worn by local women to this day, me
included. Mr. Bartels has since passed,
but will never be forgotten for his unique contribution to the restoration of
the pride of Hawaii. One cannot pass by the
palace, let alone enter it, without feeling the undeniable presence of so many
loyal hearts. In my opinion, it is one "Do Not Miss" for any visitor, even if
all you do is stroll the grounds - though the interior is AMAZING!
But we were visiting Liliha, so what about the food?
No Hawaii gathering is complete without it! We do love our "grinds." That means
"Kau Kau" or "food" to you. It also means to "EAT!" If you are in a western US
state, you may have eaten at an "L&L
Hawaiian Barbecue." The first L&L in the
chain was a humble "plate lunch" place right here on Liliha Street. And saimin,
one of our foremost local comfort foods, was also invented here. You can read
about saimin at:
<<http://comfortspiral.blogspot.com/2009/04/comfort-in-bowl.html%22%3Ehttp://comfortspiral.blogspot.com/2009/04/comfort-in-bowl.html>http://comfortspiral.blogspot.com/2009/04/comfort-in-bowl.html">
The world's greatest civic band was there too. They
were established 1836 by a King, and play a unique repertoire of Monarchy era
marches, Hawaiian music, western classics, Okinawan songs and MORE. Can you tell
how much I love the Royal Hawaiian
Band? They even played my favourite, "Kalakaua
March." Which reminds me, the band's prominent German leader during the
Monarchy, Henry Berger, would no doubt be pleased to know that the Hale Koa
Hotel, and various other venues around Our Honolulu will be celebrating a full
blown
Oktoberfest as usual this year. Now THAT'S an
entirely
different ooompah altogether!
Smile for your close-up Hawaii; Filmmakers announced
the Fall release of a period film entitled "Barbarian Princess" a biopic about
our beloved Princess Kaiulani. (We talked about her - and the eponymous street
she lived on here in Waikiki - a few "Walkings" ago). And now we hear
that Tia
Carrere will be playing the late beloved Rell
Sun in a project entitled "Wave Dancer." The $10 million film is to be directed
by Martha
Coolidge. "I believe
that Rell
Sunn is the kind of hero that we need to see in
film today," said Carrere who reportedly spent years researching and writing the
script with husband Simon Wakelin. "Here's a woman who was not a wealthy woman,
she was a single mother, she was sick, struck with breast cancer, yet she lived
a far greater life than 99% of us." Known as
the Queen
of Makaha,
Rell fought a very public 14 year battle before passing at age 47. A
professional surfer, she used her grace, wit, and notoriety to mentor youth as
the creator of the Menehune Surf Meet for children. She also served as a
physical therapist for kupuna (seniors) out in rural Waianae here on Oahu. A
portion of the film's proceeds are slated to be donated to the Rell Sunn
Educational Fund. I can't wait to spend some quality time with these great
ladies in a darkened theater! But of course, I'm fortunate to always be
surrounded by lovely people - local & visitor - when I'm out walking. . . in
Waikiki . . . ALOHA!
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